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Article: Waiting in the ice

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    Waiting in the ice

    23 Comments by Jim Stevens Published on 18th May 2020 02:12 PM
    Hi everyone. My name is Jim Stevens
    I was born in Hull in 1934 and the first time I went to sea I was 14 years old and it was the Summer School holiday. I went to Iceland in a Hull Trawler, the Darthema, a side winder trawler belonging to Humber St Andrews Fishing Co.
    In those days trawler owners were allowed to take schoolboys to sea to give them experience of life in a trawler and providing they had a signed agreement from their parents.
    It was certainly an experience and on returning Hull we had to go back to school.
    However my mind had been made up.
    I loved the sea and ships and anything to do with shipping and my desire was to go to sea in the Merchant Service as soon as I left school.
    So, after training on the TS Vindicatrix I, like many friends and visitors to this website, went off tramping around the world on various ships for the next 5 years or so of my life.

    In January of 1955 the Hull trawlers Roderigo and Lorello were both sank when fishing off the coast of Greenland. The Roderigo capsized due to the weight of ice build up on the ship and the Lorello also capsized for the same reason when she was on her way to assist the stricken Roderigo.
    40 Hull fishermen lost their lives and most of them lived in the Hessle Road area of Hull where I was born and grew up.

    In January 1956 I and my Fiance Audrey decided that, after 4 years of courting the time had come for us to be married.
    The date had been set for the 31st March. I had spent the previous 8 or 9 months at sea on the S S Dago, Ellerman Wilson's regular service to London,Genoa, Naples and other Italian ports and Sicily, London, Hull.
    It was the early January and I was aching to get back to sea so I joined the United Baltic Lines ship Baltavia. United Baltic had a number of ships out of Hull and in fact the Port of Hull had developed with its trade to the Baltic ports.
    The Baltavia was due to go to out to the Kiel canal and then on to Gydnia, Poland with a general cargo. A voyage which she had done a number of times and the usual time scale was 3 to 4 weeks back to Hull.
    So, in normal circumstances I would be back in Hull in February.

    1956 was again a very cold winter when in late January the Baltavia left the Humber and headed across the North Sea in a snowstorm.
    About halfway across towards Brunsbuttel, in bitterly cold weather the handrails and other exposed parts were beginning to ice up. It is somewhat surprising to see how quickly the diameter of a ships handrail can increase in a short space of time and in no time at all we were told to get rid of the ice.
    Memories of the Roderigo/Lorello disaster were still fresh in everyone's mind
    and with whatever tools we could get hold of, scrapers, shovels, chipping hammers etc. we set to and, for some short time the ice seemed to reappear as soon as we got rid of it but fortunately, as we got nearer to land the temperature rose just a degree or two but enough to stop any icing.
    A few ships were waiting to get into the canal so we had to wait off for a few hours before it was our turn. The weather was still very cold and miserable with snow showers occasionally.

    Eventually it was our turn and we got through the canal into Kiel Bay and almost immediately we were stopped in thick ice. A number of other ships were also stuck in the ice. The Baltavia had a reinforced bow, most of the United Baltic vessels had reinforced bows, this enabled the ship to get through slush ice and thin ice but they were NOT ice breakers and any thick ice would stop the vessel.
    We waited in Keil Bay for 3 days and then a big Russian Ice Breaker came along and then all the vessels were freed from the ice. We started off into the Baltic
    in slush ice which from time to time slowed the ship down and sometimes the ship was stopped and then the Officers and crew were occupied looking for passages through the ice. This at times meant some going astern and ahead in order to get going again in the right direction.
    It was still bitterly cold and progress was slow.
    It took us more than a week to get anywhere near to the Polish border and we were now well into February.
    Eventually we got into the bay where the Port City of Gydnia was situated.
    We anchored in the Bay. There were 3 other vessels anchored also and it was still bitterly cold weather.
    I was in a Cabin for four, the norm on those days. Metal bulkheads of course, no heating and in the corner where the bulkheads met there was continuous dripping of water which by now had turned into ice and this icicle grew bigger and fatter as the voyage progressed.
    We had anchored in water but overnight the sea froze solid. It had been so cold overnight - I remember it well - you had to keep moving about to try and keep warm and in your bunk you had to try to sleep with your clothing on and as many bed clothes as you could manage to get your hands on.
    The sea had frozen so quickly it was still in the shape of the small waves.
    In the morning the Bosun and First Mate went down onto the ice and gingerly walked around the ship, I guess they were checking the hull but we were told to stay aboard.
    We could see the long jetty we would eventually go to but we had to wait and wait and two days later the same big Russian ice breaker appeared. It seemed as though the Baltic Sea had only one Ice Breaker available to cover the whole area from the Finnish/Russian border to the Kiel Bay!
    It took almost all day to get all 4 ships free of ice but eventually we were alongside this very long jetty.

    In 1956 Poland was still a Country ruled by the Russians and immediately we put the Gangway down on to the jetty a Russian armed guard appeared and an armed guard was there for the full time we were there. You could only get ashore if you had a written permission from the Chief Officer.
    This was a very long jetty and it could accommodate maybe 5 or 6 large ships and about every 80 to a 100 feet or so there was a large post with flood lamps facing down on to the jetty and these flood lights were on all night long.
    Spaced between these flood lights was another post at the top of which were large loudspeakers . The loudspeakers blasted out Russian Martial Music all the time and this was interrupted with loud Russian gabble which was assumed to be Russian propaganda telling the Poles how good it was to be Russian!!
    This music and propaganda continued all the time, day and night non stop.
    It was almost deafening and it was certainly nerve wracking and the noise was abated somewhat when you were down in the cabins but ear plugs or ear defenders would have been useful.
    The dockers worked some times for the next day and in the evening I and the Chippy (I had made friends with him) we decided to try and get ashore just to get away from the noise. So we got a pass from the 1st.Mate and off we went down the gangway and was then stopped by the armed guard. He looked at our pass and then consulted with another guard before waving us on.
    However we quickly found ourselves walking in deep hard packed snow and the snow was in places as high as upper windows of the houses we saw. The place was deserted and we could still hear the awful loudspeakers belting out the martial music.
    Within a short space of time we realised that we would not find any shops, bars or people so we slowly made or way back to the jetty and back aboard. As we were
    getting aboard the Chippy noticed the dockers still working cargo and he mentioned to me that they were strapping big fellows all well wrapped up against the weather.
    We discovered later that these big fellows were in fact all Russian Women!

    Next day we left Gydnia in slush ice which made our passage slower but the weather was very slowly improving, although the days were going by and we were now into March. I was getting a little apprehensive at times but not too worried at this stage.

    However when we finally did arrive back in Kiel Bay there were at least 20 vessels waiting to get through the Canal. So we had no choice but to wait there for another three or four days. Fortunately we did not have to go to London before returning to Hull, this often happened with the Baltic ships and also with the Wilson Line ships, and, in the 1950's the London Dockers were prone to going on strike if they felt they needed to.
    Back across the North Sea to the Humber and I paid off on the 29th. March and got home in the late afternoon.

    I understand that my future Mother-in Law was getting rather anxious and my future Father in Law was going around muttering to himself about what he would do to me if I didn't arrive.

    Nevertheless all that happened 64 years ago and we are still together.

    Jim Stevens

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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Stevens View Post
    Hi everyone. My name is Jim Stevens

    Nevertheless all that happened 64 years ago and we are still together.

    Jim Stevens
    ivor rowe here, i'm your age jim and you brought back a lot of memories, i was in Gdynia Gdansk as we used to say, we used to go dancing in the pavilion dance hall, most of the girls for some reason seemed to be short and pudgy, my girlfriend was a polish movie star, so she told me but she was slim and good looking, in the bank they wanted to give us 5 zloty for a pound , on the street we got 100 for a pound, there was nothing in any of the shops and i remember a lot of houses had holes in the walls from airplane shells , memories eh, thanks Jim
    Last edited by Doc Vernon; 2nd January 2021 at 08:13 PM.

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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    Hi Jim a great story, made me feel cold just reading it. I too remember the Hull trawlers getting iced up and sinking. Was it called 'black fog'? I've just forgotten. Banks of ice crystals covering every inch of open deck, masts, and rigging. One job I hated while I was radio operator on the Fleetwood boats was watching out for growlers. there would be a man on the bow looking out, he would point to the ice and I would train the searchlight on the growler, while the skipper steered around it. A growler could damage the rudder or propellor. The coldest I've ever been at sea was not Iceland but North New York state. we left Buffalo on 3rd December the docks were frozen over and as we followed a great lakes steamer out of Buffalo breaking the thin ice, the sea froze over again in its wake almost immediately.

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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    Black ice. JS. ( if still politically correct )
    Last edited by j.sabourn; 3rd January 2021 at 01:08 AM.
    R575129

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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    In the late fifties we became stuck fast in ice just south of Frobisher Bay whilst taking stores to the due line early warning station at the top of the bay. We had made good progress at first ,coming from Montreal,avoiding growlers etc but after several attempts ,damaged the tips of the propellor in the process ,could not move. The prop was making an awfull noise catching the stern post at every attempt to turn it. The ice had bent the tips over.
    The decision was made to trim the ship which was not fully laden to get the prop blades above the surface and try a repair.We rigged staging and eventually cut off tips with hack saws to allow the prop to rotate. Meanwhile we saw several polar bears taking a close interest and I managed to take a photo. By this time we were getting worried because there was a strong ebb and flow tide taking us closer to the shore every time it turned. Also the noise of the ice moving against the hull particularly at night was disturbing.The Canadian Coast Guard said that an ice breaker would be with us in a about 2 days. Anyway,the ice breaker,Montcalm arrived in time and we later discharged our cargo in Frobisher Bay.
    Whilst at anchor we replenished our stores with fresh salmon sold to us by Eskimos from canoes at a dollar each.
    The stern gland had by this time started to leak but not too much. On arrival back in Montreal we were dry docked at Caadian Vickers and the prop repaired.
    We all got $100.00 reward for our efforts which seemed paltry from the owners,Counties Ship Management.
    Jim Domleo
    R610307

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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    Thanks Jim.
    you brought back A lot of memoirs, I allso started my sea time in the 1950s. on a steam trawler,with no heating for crew. For a wash or shower we had to heat water from a steam pipe and then hand pump the shower. I used to huddle up to the donkey motor behind the bridge to get warmth. YES They, where hard times, but we had a job and a place to live.

    cheers Ted Cleary

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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    Quote Originally Posted by Marian Gray View Post
    #13, Black ice matters John
    Just do not put any in my G&T thank you.
    Happy daze John in Oz.

    Life is too short to blend in.

    John Strange R737787
    World Traveller

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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Ted Cleary View Post
    Thanks Jim.
    you brought back A lot of memoirs, I allso started my sea time in the 1950s. on a steam trawler,with no heating for crew. For a wash or shower we had to heat water from a steam pipe and then hand pump the shower. I used to huddle up to the donkey motor behind the bridge to get warmth. YES They, where hard times, but we had a job and a place to live.

    cheers Ted Cleary
    Hello Ted, I can endorse everything you said, I sailed in 1951 on a 1914 built trawler 'Swanland' H402, no basics, we had no shower, but bleeding steam from the boiler to wash, only on the day before docking after 3 - 4 weeks away. Don't envy you standing by the Donkey boiler as it was used to boil the fish livers, bet you got a seat on the bus on the way home

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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    Would this be the same Ship Ivan ??
    Cheers

    Sunken ship MV Swanland suffered 'structural failure' - BBC News
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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Vernon View Post
    Would this be the same Ship Ivan ??
    Cheers

    Sunken ship MV Swanland suffered 'structural failure' - BBC News
    Sorry Dock, nothing like her,she's a modern cargo ship, my Swanland was a 1914 built sidewinder trawler, have searched the world high and dry for a photo of her, have only one blurred image.Hull Corporation, University, Trawler Association cannot find a photo.

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    Default Re: Waiting in the ice

    Guess she must have looked like this one then Ivan the Lord Roberts
    Cheers

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